Penn Ohio Roofing
Chimney Flashing Repair in Western PA and Eastern Ohio
Step and counterflashing done as one assembly by the crew that handles both trades.
Chimney flashing is the layered metal assembly that ties the roof surface into the masonry stack, and it is the most common source of leaks around a chimney. It is also where two trades meet: the roofer owns the shingles, the mason owns the brick, and homeowners routinely get sent back and forth between them. Penn Ohio performs both, so one company is accountable for the entire detail.
How flashing actually works
Flashing is not caulk. A correct chimney flashing is two layers of metal working together. Step flashing consists of individual L-shaped pieces woven into each course of shingles as the roof is laid, carrying water down the slope. Counterflashing is a second layer set into a cut reglet in the mortar joint, folded down over the step flashing so water cannot get behind it.
The failure modes follow from that. Surface-mounted counterflashing sealed to the face of the brick with caulk works for a few years until the sealant fails. Step flashing that was reused on a reroof instead of replaced has fastener holes and fatigue in it. And a cricket — the small saddle built behind a wide chimney to divert water around it — is often left out entirely, so snow and debris pile against the back wall of the stack all winter.
Why the roof and the masonry have to be solved together
Counterflashing is set into the mortar joint, so it can only be as sound as that joint. If the brick is spalling and the joints are open, there is nothing solid to cut a reglet into, and a flashing repair alone will not hold. Conversely, perfectly repointed brick over a shingle field with failed step flashing still leaks.
When you have new roofing planned, this is the moment to correct the chimney. Flashing is installed as the shingles go on, so integrating it during a replacement produces a continuous assembly rather than a retrofit worked in around finished courses.
What the Work Involves
- 1Inspect the full assembly: step flashing, counterflashing, mortar joints, crown, and the shingle field around the stack.
- 2Remove failed sealant, surface-mounted metal, and any reused or fatigued step flashing.
- 3Repoint the joints where the counterflashing reglet will be cut, if they are deteriorated.
- 4Install new step flashing woven course by course with the shingles.
- 5Cut a reglet into the mortar joint and set counterflashing into it, then seal and lock the joint.
- 6Build a cricket behind wide chimneys so water and snow divert around the stack.
- 7Verify the entire drainage path and document the finished detail with photos.
What Failure Looks Like
- Ceiling or wall staining near the chimney chase after rain
- Caulk or roof cement visibly smeared where the brick meets the shingles
- Rusted, lifted, or separated metal at the base of the chimney
- Shingles cupping or deteriorating on the uphill side of the stack
- Debris and standing snow piled behind a wide chimney
- Damp or crumbling drywall in an attic space next to the stack
What Drives the Cost
We do not publish fixed prices for masonry work, because no two chimneys or walls are the same and an honest number requires seeing the structure. These are the factors that move the estimate up or down:
- Chimney width and whether a cricket needs to be built
- Roof pitch and access for staging
- Whether the mortar joints must be repointed to hold a reglet
- Metal selection — aluminum, galvanized, or copper
- Whether the surrounding shingle field is disturbed and needs replacement
- Whether the work is standalone or done as part of a roof replacement
Insurance Claim Assistance
Sudden damage — a lightning strike, a wind event, or a tree impact — is typically treated as a covered claim. Gradual deterioration from age and freeze-thaw is typically treated as maintenance and excluded. We document the condition either way with photos and work directly with your adjuster when there is a claim to file. We do not promise coverage.
Financing Available
Chimney Flashing work is often unplanned. We offer the same financing options as our roofing projects, so the repair can be spread across manageable monthly payments instead of coming out of savings all at once.
Financing OptionsRelated Services
Chimney Flashing — Frequently Asked Questions
- Why is my chimney leaking when my roof is new?
- Because most chimney leaks are not roof leaks. Water gets in through a cracked crown, open mortar joints, a missing cap, or counterflashing that was caulked to the brick instead of set into the joint. A new roof does not touch any of those unless the roofer also handled the masonry.
- Can flashing just be sealed with caulk?
- Caulk is a short-term measure, not a repair. Sealant on the face of the brick fails within a few years of freeze-thaw and UV exposure. Correct counterflashing is cut into the mortar joint so gravity and geometry keep water out, with sealant serving only as a secondary line.
- What is a chimney cricket and do I need one?
- A cricket is a small saddle built on the uphill side of a chimney to divert water and snow around the stack instead of letting it pile against the back wall. Wide chimneys on sloped roofs need one. Without it, meltwater sits against the masonry all winter.
- Should flashing be replaced during a roof replacement?
- Yes. Step flashing is woven into the shingle courses, so replacing it during a reroof produces a continuous assembly. Reusing old step flashing to save a small amount of money is one of the most common reasons a brand new roof leaks at the chimney.
- Is a flashing leak an insurance claim?
- If the flashing was torn loose by a wind event or a tree impact, typically yes. If it failed because sealant aged out or the original installation was wrong, that is generally maintenance and not covered. We document the cause either way and speak with the adjuster when a claim exists.